Friday, 5 March 2010

This is just a quik post to let everyone know that Lauren and I are both fine. There have been about four more grenade attacks, one in Kimironko, one in Kinamba and then two on a bus in town. These have happened over the past few two days and it is quite unsettling. As I said in the last post, every where in Kigali is close to everywhere. Lauren and I were just in Kinamba, which is where the is a big genocide memorial, this past weekend, and I was walking in town getting food last night. Needless to say, We probably will not be going out at night any time soon.

Sunday, 21 February 2010

So for those of you who have been following any African news, you probably already know that there were three grenade attacks in Kigali on Friday night. One person was killed and I think about 18 injured. There are rumours coming from everywhere as to who is responsible for them, why they were don etc. I think the overwhelming majority is saying that it is due to the upcoming elections and a threat to any opposition coming from the current government. I don't think that the public will ever really know though.

You may also have heard about the random breakouts of fighting between the Hutus and the Tutsis that have been happening occasionally out in the very rural countryside. Although there is no sign of segregation between the two groups here, changing a mindset often takes a very long time to reach the outskirts of any area, and as a result, the discrimination between the two groups is still happening sporadically.

Although hearing about this type of thing does appear to be very scary and threatening, you have to put it into context with the rest of the world. Think about the constant gang violence that is n LA or even Boston. Think about any news channel you switch onto, the first thing you hear about is car bombs, or murders, or shootings, or terrorist warnings. Rwanda is the safest country in all of Africa and it is completely normal for there to be an eventual outburst of pent up energy. People cannot be pleasant and unemotional all the time, life is not life that.

So although I could worry and say that there were grenades thrown ten minutes away from where I live and freak out, I dnt think that there is really anything to be too worried about. I wont be walking through town alone and at night anymore (yes mum I have been up until now, and actually was walking right next to where the grenades went off a few hours later ☺ ☺ ) but I am not expecting another genocide to break out or anything even close that. One act of aggression in a country is normal throughout the entire world.

Monday, 8 February 2010

Some thoughts

We have come to a time in our lives and in the world where it is literally impossible for us to just be. We have to be doing, to be moving forward, always to be looking at what the next step is: where can we network? what can we be doing now in order to get further ahead tomorrow? Our purpose in life has become completely controlled by what society is constantly screaming at us. These ideas of doing something, of making money, of moving forward with our careers, are a continuous chant of what we are expected to be. Why? Why do we constantly have to be doing solely for the sake of doing? We need to be living, to be experiencing every single thing that is around us right at that moment. Throwing yourself into every single thing you do no matter what it is and feeling it throughout every inch of your being. Your being. Being and knowing your being and realizing where you are and what you are. Knowing who you are, who your personality is, what you are giving and allowing yourself to give, what you’re feeling, and then allowing yourself to feel, to feel everything and anything around you. To escape the present moment while simultaneously being so in it that what is around you disappears.

Sitting at a hole in the wall bar in Kigali, Rwanda Alejandro and I could not stop. From one thing to the next, feeling so passionate about the words flowing out of our mouths we could not resist the conversation. Tingling with anger at society and with excitement over how we want to be; to do in order to be, not just do in order to do. The simple question of “What the hell are we doing here?” fueled our philosophies and everything that we were exuding in that moment.

He, having left a job that promised him ‘everything’, and I, having dropped out of college with only a vague idea of what I was being hired for, we each moved to Rwanda. We came walking through darkness with our eyes wide open; ready for anything and hoping for it all. Un-phased by how this could hurt us in the future, or if it was a mistake, or even about what would come next. Physically and mentally we had succumbed to the present.

Alejandro and I live a very different way than most people: looking at life as one big vacation, because quite honestly what else could this possibly be? We are miraculously given 70, 80, maybe 90 years in these vessels, these things that can feel and communicate and move on their own, where we can do absolutely anything we can dream of. The craziest thing we can possibly procure in our minds, we can go and actually do them. To get caught up in the commercial, in the corporate, in the insignificant world of social pressures and expectations is quite literally to turn down the opportunity of a lifetime.

The pressure to have that one moment that will change your life in today’s society is unrealistic. A single event or experience helps you to develop who you are and teaches you part of who you could become. I could choose one of the trips I have been on, or even more logically, the work I am doing now as a secondary school English teacher in Rwanda to share with you, but it would not be accurate. To talk about just one thing, just one moment that changed my life out of every single second of my life, would be insignificant. Every experience, every moment in my life, is what is helping me to mold this vessel and the being within me into how I want to spend my vacation. From basking in an amazing cup of coffee from a tiny vendor on the corner of Nyarutarama, to letting go on the back of a motorcycle ride through the hills of Gisenyi, feeling the hot African air securing you around every twist and turn, to standing on the edge of a bridge, a hand made chord tied around your ankles, your heart pounding within you, your toes hanging off the edge. Whatever it is, however extreme, however innocent, it is every moment in your life, if you realize it and if you can accept it, which is teaching you what is important. It is in these moments you realize you are prepared for everything that is going to be a part of your vacation.
Hi everyone,
Ashleigh sent me a whole bunch of questions after I sent out my first email and I just realized I never responded to her or to them. This is what she asked:

I remember asking Julianna this last year, and you might not have been there long enough to answer, but what differences can foreign aid make to countries like Rwanda? I mean, obviously sending supplies like paper for schools is something, but at what point do you think countries like the US should continue to intervene and when should they let foreign countries stand on their own and either make it or not? Although I guess "making it or not" is completely subjective to one's location: success here in the US is probably vastly different from the concept of "success" in other countries. I love reading your general observations about how things operate differently there, or how people react to their history (or perhaps don't react). I wonder why some cultures grab on to their genocides (ie Jews and the Holocaust) while others shy away (Anyone else and the Holocaust; any of the other genocides). It would be an interesting thing to study.

I guess I've never really asked you about this sort of thing before...sorry about that! I'm interested in your thoughts on that same subject (how effective foreign aid can be, and which forms are better (ie money vs supplies vs man-power)) in comparing the different countries you've worked in over the years. Do you think that individuals or foreign influence works when trying to, for example, stop a genocide, or recover an economy? When does it make sense for foreign powers to step in and when should a country try to stabilize on its own? I guess I wonder about the threat of imperialism and seeing as how, like with Rwanda, being a colony created such turmoil in the first place, do people want external help? Or do they resent having foreigners there teaching, etc? How do you feel you've been received, as a foreigner, an American, and as a white female?



I guess to start, I will first just say that I don't believe in ever just giving. This goes for home and abroad. In order to help anyone, it is vastly more effective to show them the tools of achieving what they need to survive. If I am to simply give a few quarters to someone for simply sitting on the street what is that teaching them? How is that helping them other than in that present moment? It is not going to make any difference except to alleviate a pang of hunger for maybe a few more hours. Maybe. I find myself sticking even more closely to this philosophy abroad. The sole affect that having white skin has on people from a different race, especially if they are poor, is universal. The immediate perception of a ‘muzungu’ is wealth and jobs. Why genetics plays such an integral role in our world is beyond me, but it always has and always will. Being that race and the above things should not go hand in hand, I try to do as little as possible to support this.
It's the small actions that are the ones to reinforce this misconception. For example, on our walk home about 5 mins from our house, there are always the same 3-4 boys who sit waiting for all the muzungus to either just give them money or buy them something from the corner store. Lauren, being the overly nice person that she is, gets sucked into this almost every time. I on the other hand, perceived as the bitch im sure, give them nothing. Instead, I have gone and sat with them, learned their names, where they live etc. They no longer see me as just that white person, but they are stating to see that I am an actually person as well. For them to understand that just because a person is a certain race does not mean that they are some abstract and foreign specimen. Creating the equal footing as much as you can is crucial.
And this is applicable in every case. Every race has misconceptions made and preconceived ideas about them, yet as soon as you stop seeing a person for what you think they are, and realizing that you are essentially the same person, your openness and your ability to see reality will become much greater.

Ashleigh asked, at what point do I think that the US and other foreign powers should stop intervening and let a country manage on its own. My answer to this is not applicable to everywhere and I would openly argue my own words in many situations, but one answer to this is sticking strictly to the government. There is no question that coming in and taking over again would be an unbelievably bad, and completely impossible, idea. And one of the largest issues here is corrupt government, and by here I mean Africa not Rwanda specifically. To intervene when a government is clearly working against its public, I believe is a responsibility of the international community. (ie Zimbabwe, Sudan, the Congo, you know just to name a few…)

Constantly giving and providing for countries that are struggling to make it on there own is not the answer though. Everyone has to learn how to support themselves eventually, every country has gone through it and every community will cntinue to go through as they establish themselves.
The question of external help and the attitudes people have towards us/them, I have found shifts deending on where you are, what youre doing and the attitude you yourself have. For example, when I was in Peru I worked primarily in Villa el Salvador at a day care center. Here I was treated comparatively well except for the fact that I was made to do all the work and the people actually getting paid sat around and ate the food that was meant for the children,…but that's another story. At the day care center I rarely felt unsafe or unwelcome. Yet when I went and worked at thehospital for disabled people, I was literally hiding under a blanket in the back of a car “just in case”. I later found out that this just in case blanket was a just in case one of the many many people who hate white people comes out and tries to kill you, if youre hiding under a blanket it is less likey to happen…
A big art of that is that there is just a very low percentage of white people, and there is a lot of hate towards them. Here in Rwanda, there is a larger muzungu community. A lot of people settle down here with families and no one wants to cause of problem, ever. Making a scene is not a question. It is simply something that you do not do. For the most part, when it comes to work at least, I am treated equally to everyone else. The students are more intimidated by the African teachers and the African teachers are paid about a 1/3 of what the paid white teachers make but you know, theres no racism or inequality. Everything is good…..

Monday, 25 January 2010

Hello everyone
Its been a while since I last wrote, I have been extremely busy. I am now starting to teach art which I am so excited about. They got in another teacher today so I am in the midst of switching everything over to her. Very complicated but hopefully it will all be done soon. For some god forsaken reason they decided to completely switch up the curriculum AGAIN and now the students are reading totally different books. Nice job green hills. Nice job.
But anyways, I am now doing all the primary school art classes and then assisting in the upper school classes whenever I don't have my own classes. I am also going to be available for writing/ language help as well as college counseling so that will be fun. I am doing that mainly so I can stay connected with the older students or else I would go completely insane dealing with screaming children all day.
Lauren and Alex and I went to Lake Kivyu (spelling?) on Sunday. It was about a 3 hour drive, and oh ya, did I mention we convinced the school to lend us a car on the weekends! So we now have transportation which is absolutely amazing! . It was gorgeous at the lake though, Lauren and I will definitely be making a few more trips there and spending the entire weekend instead of just a few hours.
I am also having a dress made for me at one of the markets and I am picking it up today. I cant wait to see how it turns outs ☺

Ok must go, and I am sorry for everyone whos emails I have not returned, whenever I have internet I am frantically trying to get all my college applications done. And internet is really expensive. Im working on it I promise!
Also, I have deactivated my facebook account so for anyone who wants to get in contact with me, shoot me an email to gmail ha that rhymes! Ok must go. Love to you all.
Alexandra

Tuesday, 19 January 2010

Email 2- after 1 week

Hello Everyone

It is Sunday afternoon, I am sitting in Bourbon, a coffee shop about 5 minutes on a motortaxi/ 30 min walk form my house and right next to school. I have officially finished my first week in Kigali and have never been enjoying life as much as I am right now.
As I said in my last email, it is extremely challenging at the school. Just the number of classes, the disorganization, the administration, and the frustration that the school has so much potential but is just not quite reaching it. Just a quick recap for anyone who did not get my last email, I am teaching English to grades 7, 9 and 10, two class for each grade. totalling in 25 classes a week (may i just point out that this is more than Lauren, John (our close friend and history teacher) and claire have!) Anyways, as you can imagine my days are extremely tiring and pretty stressful form class to class because I can honestly say I have no idea what I am doing But I am learning very quickly and am beginning to get into the swing of things. My 9th graders are definitely the hardest, mostly because there are about 30 kids in each class after they decided to add and entire class 9C to my 9A and 9B classes. so not cool of them fyi. but im making it work haha.

Yesterday we went to the market to buy groceries with our friend Eric who we met/ who works at Bourbon. Hes Rwandese and a really nice guy, he claims to be 25 but we think he is lying and trying to make himself seem older so that he can get with Lauren. Clearly being 25 rather than 22 will be beneficial when hitting on a 40 + year old.... Anyways hes extremely nice and helped us to not get completely screwed over with prices at the market. We bought lots of salad stuff since literally all we have eaten since getting here has been carbs and starches. We also attempted to buy chicken but got distracted first by the full skinned cow that was hanging from a hook and then by the skinned rabbits that were packed into a cooler. I think we'll be sticking to vegetarianism from now on :)

After the market we went back to our house and all passed out from being so tried after the school week. We woke up and went out that night for the first time since being here. We went to this club called Cadillac with our friends Eric and Yanni. It was absolutely hilarious and one of the most amusing nights I have ever had. From the old white men grinding up on prostitutes, to old Rwandese men slapping our backs and saying "dontworrydontworrydontworry", to the fact that here, men dirty dance with each other and therefore with out white guys friends who couldnt manage to get anyone but old men, to the fact that some of our students were probably there and we didn't even recognize them! the entire night was just one hilarious thing after another. Also, what can top going out clubbing with a former teacher?! Such good times!

Apparently prostitution is a huge problem here though, and we definitely saw that last night. It may have been the most disturbing thing I have ever seen, these disgusting white old men probably pushing late 60's getting with these gorgeous young women. Truly gross, but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do to make some money.

Today, we are going to one of the memorials for the genocide which I am really looking forward to. Mum, i started to tell you this, but there are exhibits about 40 minutes from Kigali that are literally areas that have just never been cleaned up since the genocide. All of the bodies have been preserved with lime and you can see all the slashes and dismembered people. Lauren wants to go and take pictures for future references for art and I am probably going to go with her. Alex and Yanni said that it is extremely disturbing and they are not planing on ever going. One of the women who overseas the exhibit, her two daughters were killed and are in the pile of bodies. Apparently she goes every day, takes the two girls hands and talks to them about her day, how life is, and telling them not to be scared.

Although looking at Kigali on the superficial level you cannot see any sort of remnants of the genocide, it is truly everywhere. Even just in how people pretend that it does not exist, makes it exist even more. Since Kigali is so small, you have to be extremely careful who and what you talk about because everyone know eachother and overhears you. Even at the house, if the conversation ever turns to the genocide, we literally have to whisper just incase any of our neighbors o hears us. Basically you have to pretend that it does not exist while also constantly remembering what happened.

K im off to get my nails done

talk to you all soon.
Love
Alexandra

Email 1- 3/4 day

Hi everyone!
Okay so I am going to write sort of a mass email to everyone just so I don't have to say the same things over and over again! In general everything is going really well. I am completely loving it and honestly have been having an amazing time. Mum, KEEP THIS IN MIND WHILE YOU READ THE REST OF THE EMAIL.

Okay so the planes getting here were honestly the best flights I have ever had. Even the rwandair flight. The pilots were all amazing and on two of them I did not even notice that we had taken off, it was actually really odd. Rwandair is a smaller plane with one row of 2 seats on each side but it doesn't feel that small and again, best flights ever. When I got to Naorobi I had a minor, MINOR, freak out in the morning where I was like, I have no internet, no phone, im in fucking Kenya, what the fuck am I doing with myself?? And I tried making myself go back to sleep so I didn't have to deal with leaving the room, but alas, I could not. So I got up, went outside and explored a little and then everything was totally fine and amazing. I walked up to this raised patio where you could see 360 around you and it was amazing.
The house that Lauren, Claire and I are living in is really nice. It is about 1-2 miles all uphill pretty much from the school so we get quite the workout walking home after school. Its all really safe though and completely fine to walk home alone regardless of the time of day/ night.
The school has been pretty interesting. I got here on Saturday I think and was expecting to be teaching To Kill a Mockingbird to grade 9 and romeo and Juliet after that. Wellll as many of you know, I have been MUCH busier. I met with Alpana, this abrasive little Indian lady who basically runs everything and she told me that not only am I teaching 6 different classes, but I also cant teach the two books I came with. I ad not read any of the books that were available for reading so that was the two major shocks. I am now teaching 10CB and 10 CA and we are reading shakespears Much Ado About Nothing, 9CB and 9 CA with the same book. The CA and CB is what level they are. So CA is a higher level than CB based on the second letter. Basically one speack better English than the other. The C stands for Cambridge Institute I believe ad you can look that up online. It is just a pre set curriculum that lays out exactly what you have to read/ teach/ are tested on etc. It is because of the Cambridge list that I couldn't teach the other books. I am also teaching 7CB and 7CD. D barely speaks English so that is an interesting class.
The classes and how they organize the schedule is unbelievably archaic. They literally have a huge bulletin board with tiny handwritten/ colour coded labels stating where everyone is supposed to be during each period. Therefore it is extremely unorganized and no one is ever in the right places at the right time. It is truly insane. But everyone says that in a few weeks everything will have worked itself out. An example of how this ‘method’ does not work is that I meet with 7 B 8 times a week and 7D only 3? Go figure.
I am literally a teacher though so it is quite odd. But Im really starting to enjoy it. As you may have figured Im writing this over a period of time so by now it is about 8 oclak at night here on my second day at work, fifth day in Kigali. I had a really gooda day of classes. My 10’ were really into the discussions and worked really well, im starting them on thesis essays tomorrow which shld be fun. I had a double period of 7th grade of the same section and they spent most of the time working on prompts that I had given. Im basically trying to figure out what their reading and writing skills are at this point and we’ll figure the rest aka teaching the books, out later! In my advanced 9 class there is a kid who literally cant write any English and can barely speak or understand it so I think he is going to get moved to another class. There are a few other students in the same position, none quite as bad. My 7 D class is a 50/50 english French group. So last year they were taught in both and then this year they are learning just in English so we go pretty slow.
I think once I am done with the English I am going to start do college counseling type things for the 10/11/12 grades as well as art and volleyball. At the moment though I don't have time for anything else. I am teaching a totally of 25 (the maximum) classes a week, so there is noo free time.
Im opening a bank account tomorrow, just have to bring my passport down to officially open it.ummm what else… I think the food thing is the hardest so far. I have never had to go and buy my own groceries and then cook a meal and since I had sooo many home cooked meals at home I am lacking ideas. And they dont have like frozen premade things which is annoying. Ill figure it out eventually.
Oh and ash asked how the students are. My first day and my first class was grade 10 a class of about 23 boys and 2 girls so that was interesting. They basically just stared and laughed, much of the rest of the day went like that but then today was one hundred times better. They are like typical students, some participate some don't the usual. I officially feel bad for every teacher I ever gave attitude to aka all of them. Anywho karma I suppose? So ya classes went amaingly well today and hehe my students told me they like me except that I give a lot of homework I think but its not actually that much just more than they are used to. Who woulda thunk id like being a teacher??

K have to go scrounge around for food.

Love you allll

BYE